OPPOLAMMA
If anybody really loved and cared for my mother, it was my father’s first wife!She was wealthy and handsome. My mother was of the same age as her own daughter who was a real beauty.We, my brother and I, used to call her Oppolamma, meaning sister’s mother, as was customary among us. She used to remain in her own home, most of the time, and was something like an occasional visitor.I had no friend in the family, when we were staying at kotticall house, before partition, following the death of my father, I used to remain with the ladies. I used to see Oppolamma reading religious books like Ramayana, the fat book placed on a wooden stand, shaped like an X.She once commented that I would be a hen pecked husband! I was about five years old at that time. I have not seen her talking to my father. Normally, it was rarely that he talked to my mother either, except to give some command or to scold her!Even when we moved to a mud house at Pazhai, she remained with us, during her yearly visit, spending only one or two days with her daughter, my step sister. Her affectin for my mother was so great that she preferred my mother to serve her, when she was bed ridden during her last days. This was when I was studying for B.Sc.When I heard about her end being near, I started for her home near Wadakanchery with petty cash, enough for the bus journey. That was all I had. At that time, I did not know how I was going to raise moey for my next college fee.She told me that her end was near. After spending some time, I bid her final good bye and started to go.She asked me whether I had any money. I emptied my pocket and showed her the coins. She told me to place it at her foot and go round her and prostrate. I did as told, realizing only then, that it is customary to do so, as she was my step mother. I could have easily borrowed money for the return journey from her people in the house, but was too shy to do so and proceeded to Olarikara near Trichur on foot, along the railway track. It was getting dark. Luckily I saw the full moon rising in the eastern sky and enjoyed the whole journey, looking at the landscape in the moonlight and observing the goings on in the villages along the track, an experience we miss normally. When I reached the house of my cousin sister Kali, where I was staying and daily trekking to and from Kerala Varma College, Trichur, a distance of about two miles, all were sleeping soundly. I quietly slipped into my mattress on the floor and went to sleep immediately.
I Worked as Teacher
After uncle passed away (this I have already narrated), I left for Kanhangad, where I was called for an interview at Durga High School, on 14.11.1957 children’s day.
There were only two candidates. My record favoured me. It was a purely temporary vacancy of four months, still it was something. The salary was rupees seventy seven. I enjoyed the work, mingling more with the students than the teachers. One Vijayaraghavan is worth mentioning. His hand writing was excellent; there were no mistakes whatsoever in his answer sheets !
Once, the students and myself went on a free walk, along the beach, which was very near, towards Baikal fort where Kunjali Marakar, Samoothiri’s naval commander, was imprisoned by the Dutch.
Though it was nearly noon time, we took care to walk along the very edge of the sand, wetted by the waves, to keep our feet cold, and the cool breeze tickled our face. I thoroughly enjoyed the trip, though we were damn tired in the end. After seeing the fort, we returned by train.
En route, we saw the estuary of a river, for the first time in my life. I had never seen the sea before.
I stayed with a boy named Asokan, in some sort of an out house with thatched roof. We used to take bath in the nearby pond. For the first time again, I bought a tooth paste tube. Until then I was using the leaves of mango tree or burnt husk of paddy, powdered and mixed with salt. You will never have plaque formation in the teeth, as the rough nature of the mix ensures timely removal of the plaque, as and when formed.
Asokan told me that they used to moisten a piece of cloth in toddy and insert it in the mouth of babies to inculcate the habit in them.
The speciality of the place is palkashayam, available in the tea shop, which is nothing but milk, boiled with some herb. It is tasty.
I should mention my student Vijayalakshmy who used to wink at me and I felt outraged. Later, I learned that she used this technic with other teachers too. She was related to the manager of the school, a Nambiar, who was very rich, and stayed in his house.
There was a tussle going on between the Head Master and some senior teachers, who woul use me as a go between, as they were not on talking terms with the HM.
Before I realised it, the school closed and I became unemployed, once more.
AN INTERVIEW AT PUNALUR PAPER MILLS
When I got call letter for my first interview after graduation, I borrowed rupees five from a nambudiri, who was the richest man in the locality. I had been borrowing often during my studies, pawning gold ornaments of my aunt and used to repay with interest. This time he gave me the money without security. I must have risen in his credibility With this money, I proceeded towards Punalur Paper Mills near Kollam.he interviewer was an Englishman .He asked me, among other things, whether I ever went outside Kerala. I said no.
Afterwards I got into a motor boat at Kollam. I enjoyed the journey, my first in a boat Some time thence, I got a job at Ajmer in Rajasthan and became busy, totally forgetting the debt of Rs. 5/
There was a midterm poll in Kerala, following dismissal of the first Communist Ministry in there and I sent a five ruppe note to my friend, as my contribution to election fund, in an envelop. My friend got the letter but there was no money !</div>
Years later I was posted at Bhavnagar in Gujarat.Our peon asked for Rs. 5/ . Now, I remembered my debt to my fellow nambudiri and gladly treated it as gift. This has happened several times My next encounter with five rupee notes, seven hundred fifty in number, carefully packed in a polythene cover and safely deposited in pant’s safe pocket, was tragic, as the whole thing disappeared during journey in suburban train in Bombay. I just wanted to save taxi charges I still have a habit of unconsciously scanning the road while walking leisurely .Even ten paise coin (one tenth of a rupee ) will be picked up. One day I saw a paper which looked like five rupee note. It was so soiled and trodden over that none can recognize it .I looked closed. It was a five rupee note, sure. I was in a dilemma. It will have to be washed and dried .I was loath even to touch it. At last I picked it up with the finger tips. I walked, looking for a beggar. Even they are scarce when you need them At last I espied one, sitting by the roadside. When I showed him the note, he looked at me, angrily, I thought. At last, to my immense relief, he stretched out his palm
Thank God ! Now we have five ropee coins !
To BOMBAY
My memory fails to fill the gap between April 1958 and June 1958. There are some fading memories of a room at Pudukad centre,with desks and benches, myself packing SSLC certificate books in a bag to be sent by post, involvement of Bhavadasettan etc., suggesting some sort of tutorial for those who failed, for enabling them to appear in September exam.
Then I applied for recruitment in Bhabha Atomic Research Centre, Bombay, for which the qualification was simple B.Sc. with first class. We would get second class fare, to and fro, without producing proof.
In those days, there was first class, second class and third class. Of course, AC was unknown. So I borrowed rupees hundred from Parakunnath Narayanan namboodiri, my mother’s younger sister’s husband, about whom I have to write a lot. He was a gem among namboodiries!
Withthe help of V.B.S, WHO AGREED TO FINANCE MY STAY IN Bombay, a pair of pants was made and rubber shoes purchased.
Till then I was barefooted.
I met my paternal uncle Vasudevapphan who gave me the address of one V.B.Menon who was living in Bombay. He gave proper directions to get down at Dadar and wished me all success. I knew my weekness, as I had no mathematical background. Somehow, this escaped notice of those issuing call letter, luckily for me.
Alone, I got into the unresrved compartment of Cochin Express going to Madras and got down at Arkonam. In my excitement at seeing new places, I forgot all discomfiture in the jam packed compartment, devouring, wth greedy eyes, every bit of landscape, rivulet, hills and the forest at Valayar, Kanjikode etc. At Arkonam I had some breakfast and waited for the Bombay bound train.
When I saw my fellow travellers heading towards a compartment lying in the yard, I followed them. Some one was demanding Rs. 2 for a seat in it. So I too paid it and got a seat. After a long time it was attached to the train, when a railway official asked whether we had paid any money. We all said NO.
At meal time, they started giving meal tickets. I bought one. When the train stopped at Kadappa, I think, we all rushed to the dining hall of the station restaraunt, where they had already laid plantain leaves with a variety of dishes except rice, which was given after we occupied the chairs. It was a really good meal with ghee, dhal, sambhar,papad etc., very tasty and unlimited quantity of rice as one gets in a motel! As I had only a small bag and a narrow, thin mattress as luggage, I carried the bag with me. Even after we returned to our seats, there was time to spare, before the train resumed the journey.
After the train passed Pune, I saw for the first time, it passing through a series of tunnels. The grandeur of the mountains is awe inspiring! The valleys down below seemed very deep, as if we were travelling through the sky!
We were stuck up at Kalyan, as the track was flooded. The enforced halt continued for hours and we all felt impatient.
At long last, we reached Dadar Jn.
The railway platform was full of people and coolies. A boy came to me and offered to carry my small luggage. I told him WORLI. He agreed to put me in the proper bus; I knew nothing about it. We came out of the railway station and walked towards the road. When he stopped, I too stopped.A bus came and he told me to get in. Before he could hand over my luggage, the bus sped away. The boy followed, gesticulating and shouting. Even though I could not make out anything, I got down at the next stop. The boy too came up and told me that I should be very quick, as the bus does not stop for long.
This time I took the bag in my hand and successfully boarded the bus. As Menon stayed very near to Glaxo Laboratories, there was no difficulty in locating his flat. There was a namboodiri already there, but Menon welcomed me enthusiastically. Afterwards, Guptan also came there to attend the interview at BARC. As we could not get through, both Guptan and I decided to go to Jamshedpur, where our friends would help in getting a break. However, Menon persuaded us to stay on in Bombay, as it offered the best chance for a job. As we were too many, he arranged for our stay at Star of Cochin Hotel, from there I sfifted to a lodge near Menon’s flat, where we, several Keralites (except Guptan), shared the same flat, thus reducing the rent considerably,than the rent of the hotel.
Daily, I would go through the advertisements in the paper and attend interviews. It became a routine. Many of us came to know of each other.
I was becoming anxious. V.B.S sent me thirty rupees every month which was just enough. How long?
In pite of adverse circumstances, I enjoyed the life in Bombay. The sea shore offered the best option for a leisurely walk. There was Tram(a sort of train pulled by electric power) from Dadar T.T. to Bombay V.T, slowly moving along the road, stopping everywhere, charging maximum twenty five paise! It was a boon to the working class.
A friend of Menon had good books in his library. I read the” glimpses of world history” Menon itroduced me to a family. I enjoyed taking the two girls aged, I suppose , some six and four years, to the garden where there was a swing. Once the younger one fell from the swing, causing a bump in her forehead. I felt guilty and miserable.
Once I walked all the way to the southern end of Bombay just to see PATHER PANCHALI, a film by Satyajith Ray. It was quite a thrill to watch something so realistic, though I went on weeping all the while! Another film was MOTHER INDIA. The songs of this film are very sweet even now.
During this period I met poet Palur, a namboodiri who was working as driver in Y.W.C.A. I used to go to his room and could not believe my eyes, seeing high heeled shoes of ladies there. They must be expert in circus, not to fall, with such pointed heels. Palur was writing his autobiography and he used to read out from his manuscript. I could hardly beieve the stories about some V.I.P. namboodiries, whose driver he was,before coming to Bombay. He was teaching Kathakali to a boy at Bandra, where I went with him once.
He called me urgently one day. He got infected with chicken pox. He didn’t know what to do. I took him to Arthur road hospital where I too took shelter later on.
At the sea shore I watched the cultivation of methi plants. The sand is made into a bed and the seeds sown. Every day they sprinkle fresh water. It is a joy to see the tender plants growing up. Then they are plucked out and sold in the vegtable market.
AJMEER
After passing the first examination, I had to cross one more hurdle; part two, with accountancy, constitution of India and railway tariff rules. The first two, I liked. The last one is interesting, if we have to get a general idea only. For instance, for the same quantity of salt and marble, we have to pay different amounts, much less for salt, grass, food grains etc. being essential for life, for tranportation by the railways. So there is something like a dictionary, where we should locate the item, to see its classification. Then there are special rules for transportation of camels, elephants, their escorts etc. We have to carry a trunkload of books for reference in practical papers. There are so many things to remember. In fact we have to work like a goods clerk in the railway station. Very boring. I failed in the first two attempts, almost gave it up.
In the mean time, K.M wanted me to coach him. At the last moment, I too decided to appear in the exam. We both appeared at Delhi centre. The accountancy paper was too lengthy and, by the time I finished profit and loss account and balance sheet, of which I could add up only the assets side, the whole time for the paper was almost over and I hurried by writing the rest of the answers in very short paragraphs.
I lost hope and told K.M about my predicament.
That year, I was the only person to qualify from Western Railway Audit! Congratulatory messages poured in. I could hardly believe it. In February 1970, I was promoted and posted as Auditor, in independent charge of” workshop and stores audit”at Bhavanagar.
As we could not get railway accommodation, we stayed in a private house.
We have a reminder register in the office. All cases needing to be reminded, are entered in it and fortnightly reminders are issued. When an exceptionally heavy file came to me for signing the reminder, I asked the clerk what it was about. He did not know. I went through the whole file from the first page. When I realised that there is nothing of substance in it, but some formality had to be completed, I called the Head Clerk of the electrical section and dictated a reply from DEE’s side. When the reply was received, I proposed closure of the file which was duly approved.
The DEE was so pleased that he allotted me a type four quarter, with three (or four?) bed rooms , from his pool!
We had only Sudha, aged six and Sudhir, aged three and practically no furniture.
At that time, I put my daughter in the first standard. When she failed to return from the school, the very first day,I went there and found her cool and playing!
One day my wife told me to buy sugar. I sent Sudha with proper instructions for crossing the high way, connecting Rajkot and Bhavanagar, as the shop was on the other side. Time passed and there was no sign of her coming back. My wife lost all patience and started accusing me. At last, she came with the packet of sugar. There were many customers. WHEN ALL LEFT, THE SHOPKEEPER ASKED HER WHAT SHE WANTED. That was the reason for such a long time.
Bawa Arjan Singh was our officer, nearing retirement. A very gentle soul, like a father to me. As he was in charge of some units at Jaipur and Bhavnagar, he would be on tour, regularly at intervals. His peon is Sattu who does not know his own age. He sleeps in his chair all the time. When the calling bell rings, he wakes up, puts on his turban and goes inside the Officer’s cabin. They say his son retired long ago, as he was having proper birth records.
I was having only rubber shoes. My clleagues took me to a cobbler who drew an outline of my foot and told me to come after two weeks.
When I inserted my feet into the shoes, I was none too comfortable. They assured me it would be all right in a few days. For quite some days I went through painful walk all the way from Brahmapuri to the workshop office.
At that time, my cousin Guptan (Veembur) joined the Audit office at GLO. He was always searching for files and had no time for anything else, till he got appointment in the Meteorological department and was posted at Bhavnagar in Gujarat. Later, he joined Door Darshan, when that new department was established. He hated it and never bought a TV set!
He shared the room in the attic with me. He despised Ajmer gullies, with donkeys carrying bricks, and pined for Bombay, the only civilised place, in his opinion. On our return from the eating place, a dirty one where the plates were washed and then wiped with a very soiled cloth, we used to buy a mud cupful of hot milk for each, and carry it to our room. After use, the cups accumulated in the room which we never swept. Dust accumulated and we didn’t bother as we slept on the charpoys, a bamboo frame to support a net of fibre ropes that can be tightened at will. I still prefer that. In the summer, people sleep on the charpoy ouside the house, enjoying the breeze. People in Keralam can never think of it.
After several weeks, we decided to dispose of the cups called cullad. But how?
In the night, we started throwing them, one by one, into a dirty canal across the road, the land mark of Brahmapuri. Suddenly some one passed through the street and luckily missed our missile! We breathed a sigh of relief and stopped the game.
One Y.Sundaram was our colleague. Being from the south, we felt more at home with him. He was pro- capitalist and we used to argue endlessly. At that time, the bay of pigs expedition against Castro of Cuba had failed and we were happy. I had a bet with Y.S. who said that in six months, the Castro regime would be overthrown. I hope he reads this in my blog!
The first time I went to a wayside barber, I was astonished by his massaging my head after the hair cut. He went on doing it for a long time. Of course I enjoyed it . In Keralam they never do it.
A warriar uncle (in the north, an elderly person is uncle and equals are bhaiya or brother) was the oldest Keralite there and inevitably I was taken to his house. He was a LIC agent and a strict disciplinarian. He would stock every thing like wheat, chillies, dhal, oil etc. for the whole year, buying cheap during the season, thus saving a lot of money. I liked to have Kerala style food, but uncle takes only wheat, except on special occasion like onam (harvest festival). Aunty has no power to cook rice.
Neelakantan nambeeshan joined our office during this period. He was working earlier in Bombay Potteries. Another warriar, a seasoned clerk, was our guide. He was preparing for SAS examination, passing which he will get promotion as Auditor who is in charge of the office, where there is no Branch Officer. I WANTED TO CLEAR THE EXAM. IMMEDIATELY, but could appear only after completion of three years. He was reading thick volumes called fundamental rules and supplementary rules. I asked him: Are we class three or class four staff? He laughed.
I had never seen an office except once, when I went to get a ration card.
In March 1960 , R.B. Shukla and myself were called to attend training for six months at Bombay. We started together, after giving away things like bucket, stove, charpoy etc. to those who needed it.
En route, at Surat we broke journey and went to Shukla’s home at Bardoli, famous for satyagraha during freedom movement. I was surprised by the extensive banana plantations, the Kerala variety, the bananas being exported to Europe, in special air conditioned ships owned by farmer’s co-operative societies. His parents and a tall, slim, fair siste,hardly fifteen, welcomed us and I felt quite comfortable in their midst.
A bucketful of water was placed in the hall and I was told to take bath. I did not know how to do it in the presence of all. Then I removed my cloths, covering nakedness with the bath towel, and poured water over the head and wiped the body with another towel. Only, I used minimum quantity of water.
During the meal, his mother put rice in the plantain leaf, spread on the floor, with her hands,which I did not like, but kept mum. Inevitably there was plantain dish, like our own in Keralam.
His sister wanted to talk to me but didn’t know any language except Gujarati! In the evening we left for Bombay.
In Bombay, I stayed in a hotel at Dadar, where I, earlier used to roam about aimlessly, thoroughly dejected, but not desperate, hope still kept alive in my heart. I am an incorrigible optimist!
Now I felt secure. I sent money every month to my mother. She was happy as never before!
In the office at Churchgate station building, overlooking the cricket stadium, everything seemed posh. The Bharat Caffe, just near the building, offered Udupi food, very cheap and delicious. Mirchandani and Nambeesan were also there for training. We have just to be there; no examination at the end of the training. I read THE INTRODUCTION TO INDIAN AUDIT AND ACCOUNTS, RAILWAY AUDIT MANUAL, CHIEF AUDTOR’S OFFICE MANUAL (given to all free of cost) etc.
There was a strike by railway men. It was rumoured that George Fernandes would picket the train at Dadar. Mirchandani and myself went and stood on the foot overbridge. There were policemen every where. Suddenly, Fernandes came from nowhere and threw himself on the track, to be picked up by the police instantly! A lathi charge followed and we escaped immediately.
We have to pass a cofirmatory examination at the end of the first year. I did not know how to make a Travelling Allowance bill. Even after some one gave me a scrap of paper showing the details, I was fumbling. Then he dictated to me.
On passing the exam., my basic pay was raised from Rs. 80 to 100, (before pay revision).
At the end of the training, we were asked to give our choice for posting. I mentioned Jaipur.
At that time, Jaipur was a quiet place. My friends arranged a room in a private home at Bani Park. The foundation work of the Collectorate was in progress when I stayed just near the works. One railway employee was already there, in the same house, with a wife and a school going daughter, named Shakuntala. They were eager to befriend me. I was a self centred soul, shy in making friends. I had nothing to talk about.
The owner of the house was a BDO, working elsewhere and came home occasionally. We called his wife mataji, even though she was not old. I took milk from her, as she had a cow. I was quite lavish where tea is concerned. I used leaf tea and allowed it to settle in hot water, without boiling it, and filtered it, throwing away lot of used tea leaves. Mataji told me to give all that to her for making her own tea.
One day she started talking excitedly. I could not understand anything as she was using many Marwadi terms. In the end, I accompanied her to the military officer nearby. Then, things became clear.
Her cow had encroached into military boundary and so they detained it. When I explained the circumstances, they returned it to mataji with a warning. She was very glad and I too loved her like a real mataji! When my mother came to Jaipur the next year, we all continued to stay there.
There was something like a river beyond the cantonment area, without any trace of water. I used to wonder what it was.
I was posted in the Divisional Audit Office where Handa was the Audior. Pawar, Vasudeva, Ajit Singh and a peon constituted our office, and the branch (Bawa Arjan Singh had retired by this time) officer visited occasionally.
I would tell the peon to bring one glass milk and one cream roll. That was my breakfast. In the evening I go to a Madras hotel, where I came to know many from Keralam.
When I joined the department, we were not entitled for railway pass. This time this facility was extended to Audit staff allso. I then decided to go on leave and applied for a set of pass, meaning from and to Jaipur.
I went to Keralam for the first time, after leaving it in June 1958, under extremely difficult circumstances.
First, I went to see my brother-in-law, whom I had not seen, and then took my sister Savithry to my mother, staying at Naruvakulangara, in the original ammath, which was built under the supervision of my father. Devasena, 15 years old and studying in which standard I DID NOT BOTHER TO ENQUIRE, was there, smiling as always, a happy child even now!
I could have left them there and returned to Jaipur, but my heart told me that I should take them with me, as we had never lived happily, all together!
So it happened. We three went to Trichur, to my mother’s sister’s home, Parakunnath mana, after I visited our relativs. A half sari was bought for my sister, who did not know how to wear a sari. Mother was in our traditional dress of a white lungi (waiste cloth) and blouse, with another long cloth, worn diagonally across the upper part of the body, leaving half of it to hang behind the back!
This is compulsory, while attending a marriage function, even now, though the younger generation prefer the sari, a most cumbersome cloth, several yards long.
I do not remember the details, but I do remember that we went via Bombay where we stayed for a day at my class mate, Dr.C.V.Krishnan’s flat. There my sister Devasena (we shall call her D) lost her necklace in the toilet. I thought it an unfortunate loss, but my friend had no hesitation in putting his hands in it and he pulled off the gold ornament.
After her marriage, D lost her costly ornament in the R. Bharathapuzha, where she had gone to take bath. Her husband’s comment was: thank God you were not lost!
At Savai Madhopur, we changed to metre guage train for Jaipur, full of villagers in dhoti, with long moustaches and powerful sticks, their head covered in turban made of a very long, narrow band of cloth, which require some skill in making a turban.
Afterwards, my mother said: I thought we will now see only such people!
About the landscape, her comment was: this is bhoomi(the earth). In Keralam, we see only trees.
D was glad to see donkeys. My sisters, she said. Mataji called her Devakanya.
I helped in making dough for making chapatis. Mostly we cooked rice. Mother was srprised to see our neighbour, Shankuntala’s mother, cleaning brass vessels with fine sand of the desert, where Jaipur is. Without a single drop of water, she would make them shine like gold, by rubbing again and again with fresh sand. She once took my cloths from D and washed them herself. My mother did not like it.
We three could have lived there forever, as a happy, contended family, but He had other designs!
My regular appointment in government service was as upper division clerk, under the Chief Auditor, Western Railway,Churchgate, and was posted at Ajmer, in Rajasthan.
At that time, I was in Bombay and had no idea how to reach that place. I boarded a night train for Ahmadabad, without any reservation, as in those days sleeper accommodation was practically unknown, except between big cities.
At Ahmadabad, I was surprised to see only women coolies and many of them smoked bidis. From there, there was a connection train to Delhi by metre guage which took me to Ajmer, where I reached by night fall. On the way, my lunch was sliced tomatoes which seemed really tasty, as hunger is the best appetiser.
At the railway platform, one stranger offered to take me to the hotel. It was early May, 1959 and the hot wind from the fan was least helpful for sleep.
In the morning, after tea, I went for a sight seeing walk. Every new place is interesting. My aimless walk led me to a huge gate; inside was the famous Dargah, of which I had no idea. They were telling me so many things. Then a Malayalee explained that I can give some money for seeking Allah’s blessings and I complied. I was happy to get out.
After getting ready, I walked towards GLO. There they directed me, along with a letter, to approach the civil surgeon for getting medical fitness certificate. It was getting really very hot and on the way I noticed a small hut, just some twigs and leaves to provide shade, and a mud pot containing cool water. I was desperate to have a mouthful, but they won’t give it. Only after some minutes, they allowed me to drink water. This waiting is just to cool my body first, I learned afterwards.
I had to go the next day again to the same hospital, when I got it, the certificate. I then went straight to the GLO, as it was referred to, consisting of a Divisional Office and the Traffic Accounts Office of the whole Western Rilway. There was a loco work shop and a separate Accounts Office where I was transferred after a month or so. The Audit Office is accommodated in a room in the Accounts Office, but at the GLO, there is a big hall with a separate Audit Officer and Dy Chief Auditor, well cooled with khus thatties, a frame to hold the roots of a grass, continuously watered mechanically, water falling into tilters, which overturn when full, a very ingenious arrangement! There is a recreation club and many prefer to stay on, even after office hours, as there is no cooling arrangements at home.
The people in the office arranged a room for me at Brahmapuri, near by.
Thus ended on 6-5-1959, the long agony of unemployment.
GEOGRAPHY
In spite of the heat, I would walk around and was pleasantly surprised when I saw a huge lake with a central island. This is Anasagar lake. Jehangir is said to have renovated one side, with marble works for enjoyment of the court. At one side is a hill. I followed the line of people going up and reached what appeared to be a temple, though not in any way like the temples in the south. A stone with something like eyes and a mouth was the deity. I learned that it is Hanuman. The view from the top is superb.
A number of hills surround the lake , the tallest being Taragarh. Till now, I could not fulfil my wish to scale it. This is part of the Aravali range of mountains. A few miles away is the famous Pushkar lake, with a Brahma temple. At that time it was a quiet place. Now, it is full of foreign tourists and congested with shops.
After Bombay, maximum activity in railway construction work was at Ajmer. In those days the railways were being made by British companies who brought labour from Australia etc.
The Audit department was under the Government of India. Our peons are still provided with special uniforms with brass buttons and a red band which they wear diagonally across the chest. Gulab Sing, old enough to be my father, used to collect vegetables for himself and the Saheb, from village hawkers who were afraid to ask for moneyy, seeing the grand uniform!
Recently, an Austalian had come to Ajmer in search of the cenotaph of his great, great, grandfather. The railway authories had helped in locating the place. It was in the local news papers.
If anybody really loved and cared for my mother, it was my father’s first wife!She was wealthy and handsome. My mother was of the same age as her own daughter who was a real beauty.We, my brother and I, used to call her Oppolamma, meaning sister’s mother, as was customary among us. She used to remain in her own home, most of the time, and was something like an occasional visitor.I had no friend in the family, when we were staying at kotticall house, before partition, following the death of my father, I used to remain with the ladies. I used to see Oppolamma reading religious books like Ramayana, the fat book placed on a wooden stand, shaped like an X.She once commented that I would be a hen pecked husband! I was about five years old at that time. I have not seen her talking to my father. Normally, it was rarely that he talked to my mother either, except to give some command or to scold her!Even when we moved to a mud house at Pazhai, she remained with us, during her yearly visit, spending only one or two days with her daughter, my step sister. Her affectin for my mother was so great that she preferred my mother to serve her, when she was bed ridden during her last days. This was when I was studying for B.Sc.When I heard about her end being near, I started for her home near Wadakanchery with petty cash, enough for the bus journey. That was all I had. At that time, I did not know how I was going to raise moey for my next college fee.She told me that her end was near. After spending some time, I bid her final good bye and started to go.She asked me whether I had any money. I emptied my pocket and showed her the coins. She told me to place it at her foot and go round her and prostrate. I did as told, realizing only then, that it is customary to do so, as she was my step mother. I could have easily borrowed money for the return journey from her people in the house, but was too shy to do so and proceeded to Olarikara near Trichur on foot, along the railway track. It was getting dark. Luckily I saw the full moon rising in the eastern sky and enjoyed the whole journey, looking at the landscape in the moonlight and observing the goings on in the villages along the track, an experience we miss normally. When I reached the house of my cousin sister Kali, where I was staying and daily trekking to and from Kerala Varma College, Trichur, a distance of about two miles, all were sleeping soundly. I quietly slipped into my mattress on the floor and went to sleep immediately.
I Worked as Teacher
After uncle passed away (this I have already narrated), I left for Kanhangad, where I was called for an interview at Durga High School, on 14.11.1957 children’s day.
There were only two candidates. My record favoured me. It was a purely temporary vacancy of four months, still it was something. The salary was rupees seventy seven. I enjoyed the work, mingling more with the students than the teachers. One Vijayaraghavan is worth mentioning. His hand writing was excellent; there were no mistakes whatsoever in his answer sheets !
Once, the students and myself went on a free walk, along the beach, which was very near, towards Baikal fort where Kunjali Marakar, Samoothiri’s naval commander, was imprisoned by the Dutch.
Though it was nearly noon time, we took care to walk along the very edge of the sand, wetted by the waves, to keep our feet cold, and the cool breeze tickled our face. I thoroughly enjoyed the trip, though we were damn tired in the end. After seeing the fort, we returned by train.
En route, we saw the estuary of a river, for the first time in my life. I had never seen the sea before.
I stayed with a boy named Asokan, in some sort of an out house with thatched roof. We used to take bath in the nearby pond. For the first time again, I bought a tooth paste tube. Until then I was using the leaves of mango tree or burnt husk of paddy, powdered and mixed with salt. You will never have plaque formation in the teeth, as the rough nature of the mix ensures timely removal of the plaque, as and when formed.
Asokan told me that they used to moisten a piece of cloth in toddy and insert it in the mouth of babies to inculcate the habit in them.
The speciality of the place is palkashayam, available in the tea shop, which is nothing but milk, boiled with some herb. It is tasty.
I should mention my student Vijayalakshmy who used to wink at me and I felt outraged. Later, I learned that she used this technic with other teachers too. She was related to the manager of the school, a Nambiar, who was very rich, and stayed in his house.
There was a tussle going on between the Head Master and some senior teachers, who woul use me as a go between, as they were not on talking terms with the HM.
Before I realised it, the school closed and I became unemployed, once more.
AN INTERVIEW AT PUNALUR PAPER MILLS
When I got call letter for my first interview after graduation, I borrowed rupees five from a nambudiri, who was the richest man in the locality. I had been borrowing often during my studies, pawning gold ornaments of my aunt and used to repay with interest. This time he gave me the money without security. I must have risen in his credibility With this money, I proceeded towards Punalur Paper Mills near Kollam.he interviewer was an Englishman .He asked me, among other things, whether I ever went outside Kerala. I said no.
Afterwards I got into a motor boat at Kollam. I enjoyed the journey, my first in a boat Some time thence, I got a job at Ajmer in Rajasthan and became busy, totally forgetting the debt of Rs. 5/
There was a midterm poll in Kerala, following dismissal of the first Communist Ministry in there and I sent a five ruppe note to my friend, as my contribution to election fund, in an envelop. My friend got the letter but there was no money !</div>
Years later I was posted at Bhavnagar in Gujarat.Our peon asked for Rs. 5/ . Now, I remembered my debt to my fellow nambudiri and gladly treated it as gift. This has happened several times My next encounter with five rupee notes, seven hundred fifty in number, carefully packed in a polythene cover and safely deposited in pant’s safe pocket, was tragic, as the whole thing disappeared during journey in suburban train in Bombay. I just wanted to save taxi charges I still have a habit of unconsciously scanning the road while walking leisurely .Even ten paise coin (one tenth of a rupee ) will be picked up. One day I saw a paper which looked like five rupee note. It was so soiled and trodden over that none can recognize it .I looked closed. It was a five rupee note, sure. I was in a dilemma. It will have to be washed and dried .I was loath even to touch it. At last I picked it up with the finger tips. I walked, looking for a beggar. Even they are scarce when you need them At last I espied one, sitting by the roadside. When I showed him the note, he looked at me, angrily, I thought. At last, to my immense relief, he stretched out his palm
Thank God ! Now we have five ropee coins !
To BOMBAY
My memory fails to fill the gap between April 1958 and June 1958. There are some fading memories of a room at Pudukad centre,with desks and benches, myself packing SSLC certificate books in a bag to be sent by post, involvement of Bhavadasettan etc., suggesting some sort of tutorial for those who failed, for enabling them to appear in September exam.
Then I applied for recruitment in Bhabha Atomic Research Centre, Bombay, for which the qualification was simple B.Sc. with first class. We would get second class fare, to and fro, without producing proof.
In those days, there was first class, second class and third class. Of course, AC was unknown. So I borrowed rupees hundred from Parakunnath Narayanan namboodiri, my mother’s younger sister’s husband, about whom I have to write a lot. He was a gem among namboodiries!
Withthe help of V.B.S, WHO AGREED TO FINANCE MY STAY IN Bombay, a pair of pants was made and rubber shoes purchased.
Till then I was barefooted.
I met my paternal uncle Vasudevapphan who gave me the address of one V.B.Menon who was living in Bombay. He gave proper directions to get down at Dadar and wished me all success. I knew my weekness, as I had no mathematical background. Somehow, this escaped notice of those issuing call letter, luckily for me.
Alone, I got into the unresrved compartment of Cochin Express going to Madras and got down at Arkonam. In my excitement at seeing new places, I forgot all discomfiture in the jam packed compartment, devouring, wth greedy eyes, every bit of landscape, rivulet, hills and the forest at Valayar, Kanjikode etc. At Arkonam I had some breakfast and waited for the Bombay bound train.
When I saw my fellow travellers heading towards a compartment lying in the yard, I followed them. Some one was demanding Rs. 2 for a seat in it. So I too paid it and got a seat. After a long time it was attached to the train, when a railway official asked whether we had paid any money. We all said NO.
At meal time, they started giving meal tickets. I bought one. When the train stopped at Kadappa, I think, we all rushed to the dining hall of the station restaraunt, where they had already laid plantain leaves with a variety of dishes except rice, which was given after we occupied the chairs. It was a really good meal with ghee, dhal, sambhar,papad etc., very tasty and unlimited quantity of rice as one gets in a motel! As I had only a small bag and a narrow, thin mattress as luggage, I carried the bag with me. Even after we returned to our seats, there was time to spare, before the train resumed the journey.
After the train passed Pune, I saw for the first time, it passing through a series of tunnels. The grandeur of the mountains is awe inspiring! The valleys down below seemed very deep, as if we were travelling through the sky!
We were stuck up at Kalyan, as the track was flooded. The enforced halt continued for hours and we all felt impatient.
At long last, we reached Dadar Jn.
The railway platform was full of people and coolies. A boy came to me and offered to carry my small luggage. I told him WORLI. He agreed to put me in the proper bus; I knew nothing about it. We came out of the railway station and walked towards the road. When he stopped, I too stopped.A bus came and he told me to get in. Before he could hand over my luggage, the bus sped away. The boy followed, gesticulating and shouting. Even though I could not make out anything, I got down at the next stop. The boy too came up and told me that I should be very quick, as the bus does not stop for long.
This time I took the bag in my hand and successfully boarded the bus. As Menon stayed very near to Glaxo Laboratories, there was no difficulty in locating his flat. There was a namboodiri already there, but Menon welcomed me enthusiastically. Afterwards, Guptan also came there to attend the interview at BARC. As we could not get through, both Guptan and I decided to go to Jamshedpur, where our friends would help in getting a break. However, Menon persuaded us to stay on in Bombay, as it offered the best chance for a job. As we were too many, he arranged for our stay at Star of Cochin Hotel, from there I sfifted to a lodge near Menon’s flat, where we, several Keralites (except Guptan), shared the same flat, thus reducing the rent considerably,than the rent of the hotel.
Daily, I would go through the advertisements in the paper and attend interviews. It became a routine. Many of us came to know of each other.
I was becoming anxious. V.B.S sent me thirty rupees every month which was just enough. How long?
In pite of adverse circumstances, I enjoyed the life in Bombay. The sea shore offered the best option for a leisurely walk. There was Tram(a sort of train pulled by electric power) from Dadar T.T. to Bombay V.T, slowly moving along the road, stopping everywhere, charging maximum twenty five paise! It was a boon to the working class.
A friend of Menon had good books in his library. I read the” glimpses of world history” Menon itroduced me to a family. I enjoyed taking the two girls aged, I suppose , some six and four years, to the garden where there was a swing. Once the younger one fell from the swing, causing a bump in her forehead. I felt guilty and miserable.
Once I walked all the way to the southern end of Bombay just to see PATHER PANCHALI, a film by Satyajith Ray. It was quite a thrill to watch something so realistic, though I went on weeping all the while! Another film was MOTHER INDIA. The songs of this film are very sweet even now.
During this period I met poet Palur, a namboodiri who was working as driver in Y.W.C.A. I used to go to his room and could not believe my eyes, seeing high heeled shoes of ladies there. They must be expert in circus, not to fall, with such pointed heels. Palur was writing his autobiography and he used to read out from his manuscript. I could hardly beieve the stories about some V.I.P. namboodiries, whose driver he was,before coming to Bombay. He was teaching Kathakali to a boy at Bandra, where I went with him once.
He called me urgently one day. He got infected with chicken pox. He didn’t know what to do. I took him to Arthur road hospital where I too took shelter later on.
At the sea shore I watched the cultivation of methi plants. The sand is made into a bed and the seeds sown. Every day they sprinkle fresh water. It is a joy to see the tender plants growing up. Then they are plucked out and sold in the vegtable market.
AJMEER
After passing the first examination, I had to cross one more hurdle; part two, with accountancy, constitution of India and railway tariff rules. The first two, I liked. The last one is interesting, if we have to get a general idea only. For instance, for the same quantity of salt and marble, we have to pay different amounts, much less for salt, grass, food grains etc. being essential for life, for tranportation by the railways. So there is something like a dictionary, where we should locate the item, to see its classification. Then there are special rules for transportation of camels, elephants, their escorts etc. We have to carry a trunkload of books for reference in practical papers. There are so many things to remember. In fact we have to work like a goods clerk in the railway station. Very boring. I failed in the first two attempts, almost gave it up.
In the mean time, K.M wanted me to coach him. At the last moment, I too decided to appear in the exam. We both appeared at Delhi centre. The accountancy paper was too lengthy and, by the time I finished profit and loss account and balance sheet, of which I could add up only the assets side, the whole time for the paper was almost over and I hurried by writing the rest of the answers in very short paragraphs.
I lost hope and told K.M about my predicament.
That year, I was the only person to qualify from Western Railway Audit! Congratulatory messages poured in. I could hardly believe it. In February 1970, I was promoted and posted as Auditor, in independent charge of” workshop and stores audit”at Bhavanagar.
As we could not get railway accommodation, we stayed in a private house.
We have a reminder register in the office. All cases needing to be reminded, are entered in it and fortnightly reminders are issued. When an exceptionally heavy file came to me for signing the reminder, I asked the clerk what it was about. He did not know. I went through the whole file from the first page. When I realised that there is nothing of substance in it, but some formality had to be completed, I called the Head Clerk of the electrical section and dictated a reply from DEE’s side. When the reply was received, I proposed closure of the file which was duly approved.
The DEE was so pleased that he allotted me a type four quarter, with three (or four?) bed rooms , from his pool!
We had only Sudha, aged six and Sudhir, aged three and practically no furniture.
At that time, I put my daughter in the first standard. When she failed to return from the school, the very first day,I went there and found her cool and playing!
One day my wife told me to buy sugar. I sent Sudha with proper instructions for crossing the high way, connecting Rajkot and Bhavanagar, as the shop was on the other side. Time passed and there was no sign of her coming back. My wife lost all patience and started accusing me. At last, she came with the packet of sugar. There were many customers. WHEN ALL LEFT, THE SHOPKEEPER ASKED HER WHAT SHE WANTED. That was the reason for such a long time.
Bawa Arjan Singh was our officer, nearing retirement. A very gentle soul, like a father to me. As he was in charge of some units at Jaipur and Bhavnagar, he would be on tour, regularly at intervals. His peon is Sattu who does not know his own age. He sleeps in his chair all the time. When the calling bell rings, he wakes up, puts on his turban and goes inside the Officer’s cabin. They say his son retired long ago, as he was having proper birth records.
I was having only rubber shoes. My clleagues took me to a cobbler who drew an outline of my foot and told me to come after two weeks.
When I inserted my feet into the shoes, I was none too comfortable. They assured me it would be all right in a few days. For quite some days I went through painful walk all the way from Brahmapuri to the workshop office.
At that time, my cousin Guptan (Veembur) joined the Audit office at GLO. He was always searching for files and had no time for anything else, till he got appointment in the Meteorological department and was posted at Bhavnagar in Gujarat. Later, he joined Door Darshan, when that new department was established. He hated it and never bought a TV set!
He shared the room in the attic with me. He despised Ajmer gullies, with donkeys carrying bricks, and pined for Bombay, the only civilised place, in his opinion. On our return from the eating place, a dirty one where the plates were washed and then wiped with a very soiled cloth, we used to buy a mud cupful of hot milk for each, and carry it to our room. After use, the cups accumulated in the room which we never swept. Dust accumulated and we didn’t bother as we slept on the charpoys, a bamboo frame to support a net of fibre ropes that can be tightened at will. I still prefer that. In the summer, people sleep on the charpoy ouside the house, enjoying the breeze. People in Keralam can never think of it.
After several weeks, we decided to dispose of the cups called cullad. But how?
In the night, we started throwing them, one by one, into a dirty canal across the road, the land mark of Brahmapuri. Suddenly some one passed through the street and luckily missed our missile! We breathed a sigh of relief and stopped the game.
One Y.Sundaram was our colleague. Being from the south, we felt more at home with him. He was pro- capitalist and we used to argue endlessly. At that time, the bay of pigs expedition against Castro of Cuba had failed and we were happy. I had a bet with Y.S. who said that in six months, the Castro regime would be overthrown. I hope he reads this in my blog!
The first time I went to a wayside barber, I was astonished by his massaging my head after the hair cut. He went on doing it for a long time. Of course I enjoyed it . In Keralam they never do it.
A warriar uncle (in the north, an elderly person is uncle and equals are bhaiya or brother) was the oldest Keralite there and inevitably I was taken to his house. He was a LIC agent and a strict disciplinarian. He would stock every thing like wheat, chillies, dhal, oil etc. for the whole year, buying cheap during the season, thus saving a lot of money. I liked to have Kerala style food, but uncle takes only wheat, except on special occasion like onam (harvest festival). Aunty has no power to cook rice.
Neelakantan nambeeshan joined our office during this period. He was working earlier in Bombay Potteries. Another warriar, a seasoned clerk, was our guide. He was preparing for SAS examination, passing which he will get promotion as Auditor who is in charge of the office, where there is no Branch Officer. I WANTED TO CLEAR THE EXAM. IMMEDIATELY, but could appear only after completion of three years. He was reading thick volumes called fundamental rules and supplementary rules. I asked him: Are we class three or class four staff? He laughed.
I had never seen an office except once, when I went to get a ration card.
In March 1960 , R.B. Shukla and myself were called to attend training for six months at Bombay. We started together, after giving away things like bucket, stove, charpoy etc. to those who needed it.
En route, at Surat we broke journey and went to Shukla’s home at Bardoli, famous for satyagraha during freedom movement. I was surprised by the extensive banana plantations, the Kerala variety, the bananas being exported to Europe, in special air conditioned ships owned by farmer’s co-operative societies. His parents and a tall, slim, fair siste,hardly fifteen, welcomed us and I felt quite comfortable in their midst.
A bucketful of water was placed in the hall and I was told to take bath. I did not know how to do it in the presence of all. Then I removed my cloths, covering nakedness with the bath towel, and poured water over the head and wiped the body with another towel. Only, I used minimum quantity of water.
During the meal, his mother put rice in the plantain leaf, spread on the floor, with her hands,which I did not like, but kept mum. Inevitably there was plantain dish, like our own in Keralam.
His sister wanted to talk to me but didn’t know any language except Gujarati! In the evening we left for Bombay.
In Bombay, I stayed in a hotel at Dadar, where I, earlier used to roam about aimlessly, thoroughly dejected, but not desperate, hope still kept alive in my heart. I am an incorrigible optimist!
Now I felt secure. I sent money every month to my mother. She was happy as never before!
In the office at Churchgate station building, overlooking the cricket stadium, everything seemed posh. The Bharat Caffe, just near the building, offered Udupi food, very cheap and delicious. Mirchandani and Nambeesan were also there for training. We have just to be there; no examination at the end of the training. I read THE INTRODUCTION TO INDIAN AUDIT AND ACCOUNTS, RAILWAY AUDIT MANUAL, CHIEF AUDTOR’S OFFICE MANUAL (given to all free of cost) etc.
There was a strike by railway men. It was rumoured that George Fernandes would picket the train at Dadar. Mirchandani and myself went and stood on the foot overbridge. There were policemen every where. Suddenly, Fernandes came from nowhere and threw himself on the track, to be picked up by the police instantly! A lathi charge followed and we escaped immediately.
We have to pass a cofirmatory examination at the end of the first year. I did not know how to make a Travelling Allowance bill. Even after some one gave me a scrap of paper showing the details, I was fumbling. Then he dictated to me.
On passing the exam., my basic pay was raised from Rs. 80 to 100, (before pay revision).
At the end of the training, we were asked to give our choice for posting. I mentioned Jaipur.
At that time, Jaipur was a quiet place. My friends arranged a room in a private home at Bani Park. The foundation work of the Collectorate was in progress when I stayed just near the works. One railway employee was already there, in the same house, with a wife and a school going daughter, named Shakuntala. They were eager to befriend me. I was a self centred soul, shy in making friends. I had nothing to talk about.
The owner of the house was a BDO, working elsewhere and came home occasionally. We called his wife mataji, even though she was not old. I took milk from her, as she had a cow. I was quite lavish where tea is concerned. I used leaf tea and allowed it to settle in hot water, without boiling it, and filtered it, throwing away lot of used tea leaves. Mataji told me to give all that to her for making her own tea.
One day she started talking excitedly. I could not understand anything as she was using many Marwadi terms. In the end, I accompanied her to the military officer nearby. Then, things became clear.
Her cow had encroached into military boundary and so they detained it. When I explained the circumstances, they returned it to mataji with a warning. She was very glad and I too loved her like a real mataji! When my mother came to Jaipur the next year, we all continued to stay there.
There was something like a river beyond the cantonment area, without any trace of water. I used to wonder what it was.
I was posted in the Divisional Audit Office where Handa was the Audior. Pawar, Vasudeva, Ajit Singh and a peon constituted our office, and the branch (Bawa Arjan Singh had retired by this time) officer visited occasionally.
I would tell the peon to bring one glass milk and one cream roll. That was my breakfast. In the evening I go to a Madras hotel, where I came to know many from Keralam.
When I joined the department, we were not entitled for railway pass. This time this facility was extended to Audit staff allso. I then decided to go on leave and applied for a set of pass, meaning from and to Jaipur.
I went to Keralam for the first time, after leaving it in June 1958, under extremely difficult circumstances.
First, I went to see my brother-in-law, whom I had not seen, and then took my sister Savithry to my mother, staying at Naruvakulangara, in the original ammath, which was built under the supervision of my father. Devasena, 15 years old and studying in which standard I DID NOT BOTHER TO ENQUIRE, was there, smiling as always, a happy child even now!
I could have left them there and returned to Jaipur, but my heart told me that I should take them with me, as we had never lived happily, all together!
So it happened. We three went to Trichur, to my mother’s sister’s home, Parakunnath mana, after I visited our relativs. A half sari was bought for my sister, who did not know how to wear a sari. Mother was in our traditional dress of a white lungi (waiste cloth) and blouse, with another long cloth, worn diagonally across the upper part of the body, leaving half of it to hang behind the back!
This is compulsory, while attending a marriage function, even now, though the younger generation prefer the sari, a most cumbersome cloth, several yards long.
I do not remember the details, but I do remember that we went via Bombay where we stayed for a day at my class mate, Dr.C.V.Krishnan’s flat. There my sister Devasena (we shall call her D) lost her necklace in the toilet. I thought it an unfortunate loss, but my friend had no hesitation in putting his hands in it and he pulled off the gold ornament.
After her marriage, D lost her costly ornament in the R. Bharathapuzha, where she had gone to take bath. Her husband’s comment was: thank God you were not lost!
At Savai Madhopur, we changed to metre guage train for Jaipur, full of villagers in dhoti, with long moustaches and powerful sticks, their head covered in turban made of a very long, narrow band of cloth, which require some skill in making a turban.
Afterwards, my mother said: I thought we will now see only such people!
About the landscape, her comment was: this is bhoomi(the earth). In Keralam, we see only trees.
D was glad to see donkeys. My sisters, she said. Mataji called her Devakanya.
I helped in making dough for making chapatis. Mostly we cooked rice. Mother was srprised to see our neighbour, Shankuntala’s mother, cleaning brass vessels with fine sand of the desert, where Jaipur is. Without a single drop of water, she would make them shine like gold, by rubbing again and again with fresh sand. She once took my cloths from D and washed them herself. My mother did not like it.
We three could have lived there forever, as a happy, contended family, but He had other designs!
My regular appointment in government service was as upper division clerk, under the Chief Auditor, Western Railway,Churchgate, and was posted at Ajmer, in Rajasthan.
At that time, I was in Bombay and had no idea how to reach that place. I boarded a night train for Ahmadabad, without any reservation, as in those days sleeper accommodation was practically unknown, except between big cities.
At Ahmadabad, I was surprised to see only women coolies and many of them smoked bidis. From there, there was a connection train to Delhi by metre guage which took me to Ajmer, where I reached by night fall. On the way, my lunch was sliced tomatoes which seemed really tasty, as hunger is the best appetiser.
At the railway platform, one stranger offered to take me to the hotel. It was early May, 1959 and the hot wind from the fan was least helpful for sleep.
In the morning, after tea, I went for a sight seeing walk. Every new place is interesting. My aimless walk led me to a huge gate; inside was the famous Dargah, of which I had no idea. They were telling me so many things. Then a Malayalee explained that I can give some money for seeking Allah’s blessings and I complied. I was happy to get out.
After getting ready, I walked towards GLO. There they directed me, along with a letter, to approach the civil surgeon for getting medical fitness certificate. It was getting really very hot and on the way I noticed a small hut, just some twigs and leaves to provide shade, and a mud pot containing cool water. I was desperate to have a mouthful, but they won’t give it. Only after some minutes, they allowed me to drink water. This waiting is just to cool my body first, I learned afterwards.
I had to go the next day again to the same hospital, when I got it, the certificate. I then went straight to the GLO, as it was referred to, consisting of a Divisional Office and the Traffic Accounts Office of the whole Western Rilway. There was a loco work shop and a separate Accounts Office where I was transferred after a month or so. The Audit Office is accommodated in a room in the Accounts Office, but at the GLO, there is a big hall with a separate Audit Officer and Dy Chief Auditor, well cooled with khus thatties, a frame to hold the roots of a grass, continuously watered mechanically, water falling into tilters, which overturn when full, a very ingenious arrangement! There is a recreation club and many prefer to stay on, even after office hours, as there is no cooling arrangements at home.
The people in the office arranged a room for me at Brahmapuri, near by.
Thus ended on 6-5-1959, the long agony of unemployment.
GEOGRAPHY
In spite of the heat, I would walk around and was pleasantly surprised when I saw a huge lake with a central island. This is Anasagar lake. Jehangir is said to have renovated one side, with marble works for enjoyment of the court. At one side is a hill. I followed the line of people going up and reached what appeared to be a temple, though not in any way like the temples in the south. A stone with something like eyes and a mouth was the deity. I learned that it is Hanuman. The view from the top is superb.
A number of hills surround the lake , the tallest being Taragarh. Till now, I could not fulfil my wish to scale it. This is part of the Aravali range of mountains. A few miles away is the famous Pushkar lake, with a Brahma temple. At that time it was a quiet place. Now, it is full of foreign tourists and congested with shops.
After Bombay, maximum activity in railway construction work was at Ajmer. In those days the railways were being made by British companies who brought labour from Australia etc.
The Audit department was under the Government of India. Our peons are still provided with special uniforms with brass buttons and a red band which they wear diagonally across the chest. Gulab Sing, old enough to be my father, used to collect vegetables for himself and the Saheb, from village hawkers who were afraid to ask for moneyy, seeing the grand uniform!
Recently, an Austalian had come to Ajmer in search of the cenotaph of his great, great, grandfather. The railway authories had helped in locating the place. It was in the local news papers.
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